Witches and Mooses

Three good riding days saw me through Virginia and Pennsylvania and New York State. I deliberately went wide around Philadelphia and New York City as the traffic intensifies to a point that is no longer fun. The Catskills were beautiful to ride through showing only minor damage from the storm left by Hurricane Irene.

Then into Massachusetts and a stop in Salem where in 1692 a few young girls though it would be fun to accuse someone of witchcraft. Over the next year fear and panic gripped the area as others joined in and a total of 19 people were hanged. It was not until the Governors wife was accused did the trials suddenly stop. Unfortunately fire swept through Salem in later years, so many of the old buildings have been destroyed but it’s a nice place to visit any way.


One of the original houses associated with the witch trials


The grave of one of the Mayflower pioneers in Salem


A misty day in Salem Harbour


Along the Maine coastline

On up the coast of Maine and the scenery gets better culminating in the Acadia National Park. After that the traffic dies down considerably all the way through to Calais which is the pretty much the furthest point of the north east USA. After that you go into New Brunswick which is Canada.


Acadia National Park


This National Park is free!


The view from Cadillac Mountain is stunning

I wasn’t particularly planning to go into Canada again but I sent my buddy Ben an Email to say I was in the area. Ben you may recall was the guy I rode from Panama to Mexico with. He said that he was free for the weekend and to come up to Tuque to stay with him and his lady Dominique. So I packed up and headed for Quebec.

Once you have gone past the St Lawrence river and Quebec City civilisation once again starts to get further apart. La Tuque is about 200km north of this point and is out in the boon docks. The town though is relatively large because of the pulp mill there so it has all the modern facilities that you need. Ben and Dominique made me feel so welcome and over the weekend we had great fun. We tried a couple of local food delicacy’s of Quebec. Poutine is French fries covered in rich gravy with cheese curds on top. Sounds a bit iffy but when the curds start to melt its delicious. The second thing was Cretons, a tasty pate of ground pork, onions and lard. All of these things are of course low fat (well that’s what Ben assured me it was)


Poulet Frite Kentucky?? Very French


Non fattening Poutine - right!!


Ben's new F350 "Monster" Ute all 6.7ltrs!!

We also drove up to his Brothers Guy’s lakeside cabin which was only about 10 minutes at the back of Bens house, and nearly killed ourselves (well I did) on the three wheel motorbikes they use for hunting. This is a pastime that is common up here and although Moose season with firearms didn’t start for another couple of weeks, hunting with Bow and Arrow had already started. Moose sausage is delicious as well especially with a nice red wine!!


Guy's cabin on the lake


Three wheels in the bush. These things are dangerous!!


Moose hunting season has started


Moose sausage absolutely delicious


Ben, his dad and brother Guy. Very Canadian redneck!!


The fall foliage colour in Quebec was the best I saw


Dominique, Ben's Mum, Ben and his dad

All too soon the weekend was over and I headed south towards New York and a shipping container to ship the Wombat back to Australia. A massive thanks to Ben and Dominique for their hospitality and hopefully I'll see them in Australia in two years time.

Chesapeake and Charleston

The ride out of Washington was busy, but then again it was Monday morning and all the traffic that had left for the weekend was back. As we crossed over the Chesapeake Bay we got lost as the GPS had another hissy fit and ended up in Annapolis. It was a good enough reason to have five minutes as I tried to get “moaning Myrtle” to get her act together, but the harbor in Annapolis and the little town is very nice, although it has become swallowed up by the Navel Academy that all but surrounds it. We soon got back on our way and headed for Virginia Beach for our first overnight stop. Just before you get there you cross the Chesapeake again but over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and tunnel which is 20 miles long with two mile long tunnels, very impressive. Virginia Beach is a huge summer beach holiday destination but as the season was winding down not quite so busy. After dinner we walked along the front and we entertained by all the fighter jets (around 14 of them) flying back into the Norfolk Air Force Base in the fading light.

Another overnight stop in Morehead City saw us back in Charleston on the Wednesday night to catch up with John and Gabbe about our adventures for the last week and a half. They had also invited us to use there apartment in the center of the French Quarter in the city on the Thursday which we eagerly accepted.


The Apartment in the French Quarter


John, Gabbe and Claire


I love the name of this seafood restaurant


Gas lamps still light the streets

The old part of Charleston is fantastic. Everything that is chic and classy about the “old south” is here in spades. The tourist shops cater for every need and wallet size and we finally got to try the Sticky Fingers restaurant chains Ribs and ‘slaw.


The old market


The sign above the building. A step into the past.


A dozen fresh Oysters and a cold beer as an appetizer


Potato shins with pulled pork


Followed by a selection of ribs! Oh god I can't walk!!!

As you walk around the Waterfront from the Market to the Park and on towards the Battery you pass some of the largest houses I think I have ever seen, a testament to the wealth and importance of this city in times gone by. All too soon our time there was over and so to was Claire’s. We said our farewells on the Saturday as she flew back to Paris and work. Never mind we will catch up again in November when I visit her at home. I left on the Monday heading north to by-pass all the things and places I had already seen and head up to the Catskill Mountains.


The oldest house in Charleston (the pink one)


Some of the mansions along the waterfront


Very impressive


Tax was levied on street frontage, so build narrow houses!

Washington DC

Washington DC was another of those pleasant surprises that keep cropping up. The ride in from the Skyline Drive was easy enough and as we got closer to the city the scenery remained very green where I was expecting things to get increasingly built up and “urban” we crossed over the Potomac River and the GPS guided us through the traffic, very busy but what do you expect on a Friday arvo in a capitol city? until we got to our downtown hotel The Quincy. We picked this because of it‘s location (only three blocks from the White House, and because everything else was ridiculous prices.

The next day we bought two 2 day passes for the open top bus tour that runs around the main sights. At around $40 for the two days I reckon it was good value and the easiest way to get to see all the things you want to. You jump on and off as the desire takes you. We caught the bus after walking down to the White House or “Bazza’s Crib” Our first jump off the bus was the National Archive to see the Declaration of Independence (very faded) and the Bill of Rights (all me are created equal, etc) and then jumped back on to do the whole loop round and just enjoy the sights. Our last stop after lunch which consisted of a Polish Hot Dog was the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum. We walked all the way back to the Hotel, note the brightest move in hindsight but it generated a good appetite for the Italian Restaurant around the corner that evening.


Bazza's Crib


And around the back


There's always some nutter with a flag (good one though!!)


The Capitol Building


Lunch, one with the lot!!


The Spirit of St Louis in the Smithsonian

Day two saw us back on the bus to visit the Chinatown district and look at Fords Theatre where Lincoln was shot. Then finally down to his memorial which is every bit as impressive as it appears on the TV or in pictures. Unfortunately the reflection pool was a little muddy having been drained for some work. Also nearby is the Korean war memorial which is one of the most impressive modern ones I've seen. On a side note the police presence on the Sunday was enormous, the reason it was the tenth anniversary of 9/11. We did get a fly by, by Marine One, as we left Lincolns memorial as Bazza returned to his crib after laying a wreath at the Pentagon. All too quick unfortunately to get the camera going. We both left Washington happy that we had each seen the things on our list that we wanted.


Fords Theater where Lincoln was shot


And his monument


Inside is the impressive statue


Outside you look up along the reflection pool to the National Monument


The Korean War Memorial


The granite wall opposite is very cleverly engraved


Finally Washington's Memorial

The Tail of the Dragon and the Blue Ridge Parkway

The first days ride up to Greenwood was busy as we left Charleston on the Sunday morning. Labor Day weekend is one of the busiest holiday weekends in the USA so everyone in the city was going somewhere. As we made our way into the countryside it quietened down until we were passing through small villages where Sunday afternoon was a quiet time after morning church, and believe me church is BIG down here in the south!! They even hire the local police department to direct the traffic when everyone is leaving.

After an overnight stop in Greenwood we headed for the hills again with the forecast of rain. We almost made it until the last 30 Km when the heavens just opened with the vengeance of the almighty! We entered the lobby of the Hampton Inn in Franklin looking like two drowned rats! The woman on the desk was wonderful and got us to our room with all haste, and then took our soaking wet jeans to get then dried. All the way into the mountains there was a que of traffic heading the other way. The end of the long weekend, and hopefully a quieter time on the roads for us.

Unfortunately the weather had not improved the next day so we stayed put and did some shopping and planning for the next few days to come.

Deals Gap is one of the must do destinations for any biker on the east coast of the United States. 318 curves in 11 miles (17km). There is a motel at the start of the run where all the bikers congregate or pull in to fill up with gas before enjoying a superb piece of road. The local constabulary is also usually present to make sure that people behave themselves!!


Nearly at Deals Gap


Claire getting used to the bike again


Biker friendly or what?


Just about to start or returning with a smile

An added bonus for us was a film crew which was filming an episode of the USA version of the Hairy Bikers cooking program. Having seen the original English version we were keen to see what was happening here. It’s more the kind of food that Americans will find in there own back yard and after having a quick chat with the guys who were actually cooking a whole Hog and three large pork shoulders on the most industrial looking BBQ you have ever seen in you life we were asked to join everyone for lunch and answer some questions by the boys if we were asked. The pork was unbelievable, melt in the mouth heaven that I can only dream of achieving when I get back home. But I’m going to try.


Now that's a BBQ!!


A whole Hog! 14 hours later, mmmm!


The three dry rub pork shoulders


Oh yes, the roads pretty good too.


There is a tree of shame for those who don't quite make it!

Wednesday morning saw us set of for the long run along the Blue Ridge Parkway. The road is fantastic and I think the scenery would have been equally so if not for the clouds that we ran into once we had climbed up over 2000ft! We did get an inkling of the grandeur later in the afternoon but were content with enjoying the ride through to Roanoke that night and some good (Tex Mex) Mexican food that evening.


A cloudy start to the day


It did improve though. The Blue Ridge Parkway, stunning.


Day two started better. This is Otter Lake.


And finally along the Skyline Drive.

Thursday saw us complete the run along the parkway and into the Skyline Drive which runs into the Shenandoah National Park and down towards Washington DC.