Chesapeake and Charleston

The ride out of Washington was busy, but then again it was Monday morning and all the traffic that had left for the weekend was back. As we crossed over the Chesapeake Bay we got lost as the GPS had another hissy fit and ended up in Annapolis. It was a good enough reason to have five minutes as I tried to get “moaning Myrtle” to get her act together, but the harbor in Annapolis and the little town is very nice, although it has become swallowed up by the Navel Academy that all but surrounds it. We soon got back on our way and headed for Virginia Beach for our first overnight stop. Just before you get there you cross the Chesapeake again but over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and tunnel which is 20 miles long with two mile long tunnels, very impressive. Virginia Beach is a huge summer beach holiday destination but as the season was winding down not quite so busy. After dinner we walked along the front and we entertained by all the fighter jets (around 14 of them) flying back into the Norfolk Air Force Base in the fading light.

Another overnight stop in Morehead City saw us back in Charleston on the Wednesday night to catch up with John and Gabbe about our adventures for the last week and a half. They had also invited us to use there apartment in the center of the French Quarter in the city on the Thursday which we eagerly accepted.


The Apartment in the French Quarter


John, Gabbe and Claire


I love the name of this seafood restaurant


Gas lamps still light the streets

The old part of Charleston is fantastic. Everything that is chic and classy about the “old south” is here in spades. The tourist shops cater for every need and wallet size and we finally got to try the Sticky Fingers restaurant chains Ribs and ‘slaw.


The old market


The sign above the building. A step into the past.


A dozen fresh Oysters and a cold beer as an appetizer


Potato shins with pulled pork


Followed by a selection of ribs! Oh god I can't walk!!!

As you walk around the Waterfront from the Market to the Park and on towards the Battery you pass some of the largest houses I think I have ever seen, a testament to the wealth and importance of this city in times gone by. All too soon our time there was over and so to was Claire’s. We said our farewells on the Saturday as she flew back to Paris and work. Never mind we will catch up again in November when I visit her at home. I left on the Monday heading north to by-pass all the things and places I had already seen and head up to the Catskill Mountains.


The oldest house in Charleston (the pink one)


Some of the mansions along the waterfront


Very impressive


Tax was levied on street frontage, so build narrow houses!

Washington DC

Washington DC was another of those pleasant surprises that keep cropping up. The ride in from the Skyline Drive was easy enough and as we got closer to the city the scenery remained very green where I was expecting things to get increasingly built up and “urban” we crossed over the Potomac River and the GPS guided us through the traffic, very busy but what do you expect on a Friday arvo in a capitol city? until we got to our downtown hotel The Quincy. We picked this because of it‘s location (only three blocks from the White House, and because everything else was ridiculous prices.

The next day we bought two 2 day passes for the open top bus tour that runs around the main sights. At around $40 for the two days I reckon it was good value and the easiest way to get to see all the things you want to. You jump on and off as the desire takes you. We caught the bus after walking down to the White House or “Bazza’s Crib” Our first jump off the bus was the National Archive to see the Declaration of Independence (very faded) and the Bill of Rights (all me are created equal, etc) and then jumped back on to do the whole loop round and just enjoy the sights. Our last stop after lunch which consisted of a Polish Hot Dog was the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum. We walked all the way back to the Hotel, note the brightest move in hindsight but it generated a good appetite for the Italian Restaurant around the corner that evening.


Bazza's Crib


And around the back


There's always some nutter with a flag (good one though!!)


The Capitol Building


Lunch, one with the lot!!


The Spirit of St Louis in the Smithsonian

Day two saw us back on the bus to visit the Chinatown district and look at Fords Theatre where Lincoln was shot. Then finally down to his memorial which is every bit as impressive as it appears on the TV or in pictures. Unfortunately the reflection pool was a little muddy having been drained for some work. Also nearby is the Korean war memorial which is one of the most impressive modern ones I've seen. On a side note the police presence on the Sunday was enormous, the reason it was the tenth anniversary of 9/11. We did get a fly by, by Marine One, as we left Lincolns memorial as Bazza returned to his crib after laying a wreath at the Pentagon. All too quick unfortunately to get the camera going. We both left Washington happy that we had each seen the things on our list that we wanted.


Fords Theater where Lincoln was shot


And his monument


Inside is the impressive statue


Outside you look up along the reflection pool to the National Monument


The Korean War Memorial


The granite wall opposite is very cleverly engraved


Finally Washington's Memorial

The Tail of the Dragon and the Blue Ridge Parkway

The first days ride up to Greenwood was busy as we left Charleston on the Sunday morning. Labor Day weekend is one of the busiest holiday weekends in the USA so everyone in the city was going somewhere. As we made our way into the countryside it quietened down until we were passing through small villages where Sunday afternoon was a quiet time after morning church, and believe me church is BIG down here in the south!! They even hire the local police department to direct the traffic when everyone is leaving.

After an overnight stop in Greenwood we headed for the hills again with the forecast of rain. We almost made it until the last 30 Km when the heavens just opened with the vengeance of the almighty! We entered the lobby of the Hampton Inn in Franklin looking like two drowned rats! The woman on the desk was wonderful and got us to our room with all haste, and then took our soaking wet jeans to get then dried. All the way into the mountains there was a que of traffic heading the other way. The end of the long weekend, and hopefully a quieter time on the roads for us.

Unfortunately the weather had not improved the next day so we stayed put and did some shopping and planning for the next few days to come.

Deals Gap is one of the must do destinations for any biker on the east coast of the United States. 318 curves in 11 miles (17km). There is a motel at the start of the run where all the bikers congregate or pull in to fill up with gas before enjoying a superb piece of road. The local constabulary is also usually present to make sure that people behave themselves!!


Nearly at Deals Gap


Claire getting used to the bike again


Biker friendly or what?


Just about to start or returning with a smile

An added bonus for us was a film crew which was filming an episode of the USA version of the Hairy Bikers cooking program. Having seen the original English version we were keen to see what was happening here. It’s more the kind of food that Americans will find in there own back yard and after having a quick chat with the guys who were actually cooking a whole Hog and three large pork shoulders on the most industrial looking BBQ you have ever seen in you life we were asked to join everyone for lunch and answer some questions by the boys if we were asked. The pork was unbelievable, melt in the mouth heaven that I can only dream of achieving when I get back home. But I’m going to try.


Now that's a BBQ!!


A whole Hog! 14 hours later, mmmm!


The three dry rub pork shoulders


Oh yes, the roads pretty good too.


There is a tree of shame for those who don't quite make it!

Wednesday morning saw us set of for the long run along the Blue Ridge Parkway. The road is fantastic and I think the scenery would have been equally so if not for the clouds that we ran into once we had climbed up over 2000ft! We did get an inkling of the grandeur later in the afternoon but were content with enjoying the ride through to Roanoke that night and some good (Tex Mex) Mexican food that evening.


A cloudy start to the day


It did improve though. The Blue Ridge Parkway, stunning.


Day two started better. This is Otter Lake.


And finally along the Skyline Drive.

Thursday saw us complete the run along the parkway and into the Skyline Drive which runs into the Shenandoah National Park and down towards Washington DC.

Georgia and the Appellation Mountains

The ride up into Georgia went smoothly. I was surprised by the amount of forestation I was riding through. Like Alaska it’s n ice at first but as scenery goes it gets boring quite quickly. I had picked a town called Dublin as my first stop through this state, but it's nothing like it’s namesake in Ireland. Someone must have been very homesick when they named this town. The next day I also rode through one of the larger towns called Athens. This town might have been worth closer inspection as it’s one of the major universities in the south, along with that the sorority houses. Huge old Greco Georgian southern homes that have large Greek letters on the porticos like Alpha Beta Kappa.


The Blue Ridge Scenic Railway about to depart


The main street of Blue Ridge


Up in the mountains

That Thursday night saw me in the Appellation Mountains in the small town of Blue Ridge. The main street of the oldest part of town has some beautiful tourist shops and see’s the departure of the Blue Ridge railway each day. The roads around this part of the state were full of motorcyclists making the most of the winding mountain roads. After a couple of nights there I rode 250km to end up 50km away from where I had started in a pseudo German Alpine town of Helen. Very cheesy but with a lot of people enjoying the river by floating down in inflatable rings and putting on the pounds eating the ice creams and local chocolates. My one complaint was at 5 o’clock on the Sunday I decided that it was beer o’clock and when I put the can of Budweiser on the counter the clerk said sorry no beer sold on Sunday!!


The "Alpine" village of Helen


Another covered bridge near Helen


Tubing down the river. A good way to deal with the heat.

On the Monday I started a slow ride down towards South Carolina stopping in Augusta on the way down to a small town on the coast called Beaufort where there is one of the main US Marine training facilities. So I’m now just outside Charleston with John and Gabby, friends of another good friend who I haven’t seen in 33 years. Claire is joining me for this little part of the journey through South and North Carolina and up to Washington before she flies back home to Paris. John and Gabby’s place in Awendaw is beautiful set among the trees with access to the intercostal waterways that run along the Carolina coast.


The grand old houses of the south


The shrimp boats. There is actually a Bubba Gump shrimp restaurant!


The view from Johns house to the jetty


And looking back to the house


Gabby's Mother still lives on the plantation with this fantastic driveway


Down to the main house