Central America

The next stop in Costa Rica was Arenal, a small town situated at the base of an active volcano, the town maybe small but it’s a major tourist attraction, and there were a lot of coaches coming in for the day for the two main attractions of the volcano visitors centre and the waterfall.

The cloud was covering the Volcano in Arenal

I opted for an early walk to the waterfall, which was about 9km from the town. It’s the last 2km that hurts as it climbs steeply up to the top of the falls. You then have to go down the 500 steps to the bottom!! Once there the decision had already been made that although I only had the shorts I was wearing I was goig for a swim. The lovely cool fresh water was a relief from the already hot and humid day, and at the time I got there only a few people were there. As I left however three coach loads had arrived and were making their way down the steps.


The top of the waterfall


The bottom of the falls and a nice pool to cool off

The next morning we left early in the rain, and headed for the border with Nicaragua. All the stories about the process involved in crossing these central American borders are true. It’s not easy and you will have to visit four or more different windows to get various things stamped or pay for photocopies. I have been lucky traveling with Ben in that 1. He speaks very good Spanish, and so has the ability to determine the process very quickly and 2. At any point there was somebody watching the bikes for security. After four hours we were through and into Nicaragua, and another three hours of riding saw us three quarters of the way across the country and looking for a place to stay the night. As we rode into the outskirts of the town we saw a “motel” that looked alright. As it turned out it was one of the “love” motels that are fairly abundant across the country. So you can either have the room for two hours, or all night. Having said that the place was very clean and the security for the bikes was good, and all night was $20. Dinner that night was interesting as we ate at a roadside stall. Wild rice and beans with a skewer of (very chewy) beef. But the bill came to $1.50 and I went to bed full.

An early start the next morning and we were heading to the Honduras border. This was the one that by all accounts was to be the hardest and potentially the most corrupt. We were there by half past ten. After Ben had fended off all the “helpers” that immediately surround you, I stood guard while he set off to establish the process. He was soon back with the good news that the officer would do both bikes together. In the end we were only there for three hours. Again another three hours riding saw us three quarters of the way across the country and pulling into a small coastal holiday town. We got a nice room in a hotel where the rooms were actually out over the ocean. We were the only ones in the hotel, and we were also the only ones in a small restaurant just along the road, where I had a whole fish stuffed with seafood and rice and salad for the princely sum of $15. Needless to say I went to bed happy again that night.


The hotel over the ocean. Welcome to Honduras


A walk round town before the sun goes down


Out of Honduras. The border was quiet

Another day, and another border. This time a very early start and we started to climb into the hills heading for the border with El Salvador. We had deliberately picked the middle of the three border crossings in the hope that it would be relatively quiet. We weren’t disappointed. We got there at 08.30 and we even beat the Aduana office opening. Two hours was all it took to get out and into El Salvador. Very quick, although I can imagine that later in the day or one of the major crossings on the Pan American highway could be a lot worse.


Into El Salvador. The US Army was there too

So we are now in a little town called La Libertad, again right on the coast in the best hotel in town for a change, but this time it’s only $47 a night. Yesterday we caught a bus into San Salvador (the capital) which was an adventure in itself. The concept of the bus is full doesn’t exist until more people can’t get there feet onto the step. Around 50% of the population of El Salvador live in this city, so it’s another busy place. Most of the old buildings have been destroyed by earthquakes in the past, and indeed we had a small one the other night that I felt in the room. But we visited the national archive and what was the palace of justice one of the older buildings that was rebuilt after a fire in 1906. We also visited the Museum of Anthropology, before a better ride back in on of the private buses that weren’t so crowded and didn’t stop every two minutes! It was double the price though at $1.50. As you can gather El Salvador is not the most expensive country to visit


Busy street market in San Salvador


The national Archive in San Salvador


Our Hotel in La Libertad


The Seafood restaurant behind the hotel