Even the ride out of Bariloche is spectacular as you travel around the end of the lake then climb up into the mountains and get a panoramic view across the lake to the town. The route up to Zapala takes you through winding valleys and follows the rivers that have cut through this volcanic area. Condors float above you riding the thermals effortlessly.
Zapala is another small town in the middle of nowhere but it seems to have a civic pride that some of the larger towns lack. The Hotel with the casino seemed to be the nicest with secure parking. It seems that throughout Argentina a three star hotel will set you back about $40 t0 $50 and the older I get the more I like my comfort. I’ll put up with quite a bit of shit during the day, but it’s nice to have somewhere comfortable and clean to stay at night.
The next day was a big one. A 530km ride up to Malargue with nowhere but a fuel stop in-between. Unfortunately they were delivering fuel when I got there and for the next hour nothing gets served. No choice but to wait patiently until they decide that it’s OK to pump gas again.
Just when you think you’ve got it licked, Routa 40 throws it’s last little bit of a challenge at you. The last 100km is ripio, and some rough stuff at that. Corregations that rattle your eyeballs, and for the first time what we in Australia call bull dust in Africa it’s called “fesh, fesh” its basically very fine dust that is like talcum powder. At one point there was no way round it, but the hole that I hit must have been eight inches deep. The resulting dust cloud from the front wheel covered everything from the knees down in this fine powder. I rolled into Malarque looking like I’d done a hard day on the Dakar!! The hotel gave me a broom to try to get the worst of it off before I went to my room.
I’m now in San Rafael an easy ride through the last of the scrubland and valleys until you come over a crest and are confronted with a lush green valley filled with vineyards. Lots of vineyards, I’m into the main wine producing area of Argentina. The tree lined avenues and streets are well thought out, with a irrigation system to water the trees. Just keep an eye on where you are walking or you can end up in a four-foot channel full of water!!
Next stop is another short hop up to Mendoza, the capital of the area. Time to get the wombat serviced, and some fresh rubber. The front has taken a beating from the sharp rocks on the ripio, and the back while not worn out, best be changed now, then it should last me through until I hit the Dalton Highway in Alaska. the Dempster Highway in Canada.
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